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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.