Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.